My partner Lesley Abdela and I were in Paleochora, SW Crete from late September into mid-October this year (2005) and took the daily ferry to Souga, just along the southern coast, and clambered up a gorge and over a plateau for a couple of hours to get to Lissos, a long-abandoned ancient site tucked into an enclave in the fairly barren hills. Although excavated by the Greek authorities in 1957, who took away anything of instrinsic value, it is a magical site although boiling hot in late September still. The atmsophere took me back to Homeric times and both Lesley and I said a (pagan) prayer for those friends of ours who are ill, because this site was once an Asklepieion, where healing prayers might be answered. Really worth a visit (even if you cheat and take a boat for 20 euros from nearby Souga) but there's little water there so if you walk any time in the heat of the day, take at least a litre of water with you.

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